Haute Couture SS16


I have to say, I enjoyed the brevity of this season's Couture shows. Not every designer does Haute couture, nor should they. There were some extraordinarily gaudy (Zuhair Murad) collections some theatrical collections and some that just . . . . . drifting off disinterestedly*


 i was so underwhelmed by Old favorites like Giambattista Valli that they barely elicited a yawn. The same happened with Valentino. Every season The shapes tend to stay primarily the same, with the added bonus of some ethnic appropriation. LAst season was Africa. Ouch. This season, was it Greek? Roman?  Ambiguous medieval something or other? Having said that i'd happily wear any number of the exquisitely crafted pieces that floated down either the runways - I just wouldn't pay to. I say that while imagining I was one of the 'front-row sitters' that require a piece or ten from each collection per season. What I'm saying is, they'd be had pressed fro something different. 

Valentino - Undeniably beautiful, undeniably derivative. Wait. Can one be derivative of oneself?

Giambattista Valli - We get it. You like mini dresses and enormous skirts made of tulle. I long for the GBV of 2004. Now that was something. 

Schiaparelli - The best of the bunch in my opinion. except for the cape that looks like an egg. Other than that - thumbs way up. A cohesive show, that in no way mimics their past three Haute couture collections. Are you listening Valentino & Giambattista?


the 80's: (see: shoulder pads) Which, lets face it - go hand in hand anyway.
ulyana sergeenko channelled seventeen magazine darling, jesssica mcklintock - however in the most elegant covetable way. Jean Paul Gaultier did his fair share in spurring on exaggerated fashion hits from the 80's. A little MAx headroom here, a little working girl there. From prom to punk there were stirrups, pastels, puffed sleeves and jumpsuits. The jury's still out. 

ruffles: everyone. really.

stupid high-low hems: so infuriating i don't want to post photos. 

sequin embroidery: in particular utilized in such a way that the sequins form a pattern or print - anything but hap hazard. 

The end-ish. We'll see if I can gather enoug henergy to tear apart NYC, London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks next.