Giambattista Valli – At long last a slight diversion from his stereotypical floral mini skirts. This time it was less mod and more modest – with high collars opaque tights and full sleeves. Somewhere between the opulent Romanovs and Victorian romance, GBV gave me hope. Even though he ended the show with his predictable froth of tulle. Siiigh.
J. Mendel - killed it . . . literally. There was a crap-ton of fur. Having said that it was easily one of my favorite collections.
Schiaparelli - breathtaking, and not in a Jerry Seinfeld sort of way. Elizabeth I ‘s court jester goes to Studio 54 by way of the Big Top. There was a LOT going on – but done in a miraculously cohesive way. This is the only show I watched multiple times.
Maison Margiela – Possibly the only collection that didn’t deliberately reference an historical theme. Instead, like a seagull caught in a beer ring Galliano’s latest effort was tightly tangled in a fishing narrative. Like a mess of flotsam hauled up from the ocean floor, there were nets, plastic and semi-digested feathers adorning everything from slickers to bonnets. I didn’t hate it.
Viktor & Rolf - One word; Hobo. The good kind. It was a rags to literal riches story. Think Hollywood’s Artful Dodger - complete with jaunty bedraggled top hat and pockets full of buttons and jewels. But with way more ruffles.
Valentino - Big news Maria Grazia Churi is leaving Pier Paolo Piccoli and Maison Valentino for Dior. Here’s hoping the rock-stud shoes go with her. This will be their last Haute Couture show as co-creative directors. The show was a blatant, albeit gorgeous nod to the fashion stylings of Elizabethan England. The only thing missing was a chopping block and Anne of Cleaves (yes I know she wasn’t beheaded but I need a segue).
And speaking of Cleaves . . . here are the trends as I see them.
Cleavage cut outs:
Several designers not so subtly pointed directly to the chesticles by way of triangular cut outs.